Garowe, April 16, 2019 – In 1998, before the establishment of Puntland State, Garowe—now the proud capital of Somalia’s first federal state—was a starkly different place. A squatter-like village with crumbling neighbourhoods, its economy teetered on the edge of collapse. The only signs of commerce were women-run tea stalls serving stale, sugary brews and street vendors peddling khat, a stimulant leaf imported from Kenya and Ethiopia, nations historically at odds with Somalia. Even travelers en route from Galkayo to Bosaso rarely paused here, deterred by the dust, flies, and swarms of mosquitoes that plagued the shanty huts lining the main highway.
A Village on the Brink
Most residents had fled to Galkayo or Bosaso, where nascent economic opportunities and basic public services offered hope. Garowe’s hospitality sector consisted of four rudimentary “hotels”—Daawad, Nugaal, Guureeye, and Bulshaale—where guests slept on mats under blankets, shielding themselves from insects and dust. Commerce was stifled by inter-subclan distrust; transactions rarely crossed kinship lines. Tea vendors often poured unsold stock into the streets, attracting pests and deepening the village’s decline. Not a single two-story building stood in Garowe at the time.
The Puntland Catalyst
Everything changed with Puntland’s founding in 1998. Garowe’s residents made a pivotal decision: they hosted delegates to the state’s constitutional congresses, offering free lodging and security. This generosity earned Garowe the status of capital. Under the leadership of late President Abdullahi Yusuf, Nugaal Region received two ministerial posts—a symbolic gesture of inclusion. Almost overnight, the village began its metamorphosis.
Rise of a Capital
Garowe’s newfound political significance injected it with power, revenue, and ambition. The city’s skyline transformed, dotted with modern high-rises, elevators, and state-of-the-art facilities. While swimming pools remain absent, the 40°C heat may yet inspire their construction. Urbanization brought new social dynamics: residents embraced cosmetics, manicures, and a burgeoning café culture, though some lamented the rise of “urban decadence.” The city’s growth, however, was tempered by lingering clan tensions, encapsulated in the local adage, “Nugaal waa labo daan” (“Nugaal lies between two hills”), a metaphor for territorial caution.
Shadows of Progress: The Aaran Jaan Scandal
Not all transformations were positive. A youth committee tasked with auditing public debt from the constitutional conferences became infamous for embezzling 2.5 billion Somali Shillings (~$250,000 USD). Dubbed Aaran Jaan (“Devil’s Kin”), this group entrenched itself in politics, later infiltrating federal offices in Mogadishu. Today, they wield outsized influence, positioning themselves as powerbrokers between Puntland and the federal government—a legacy of corruption that still taints the region’s reputation.
Garowe Today: A Beacon of Progress
Despite these challenges, Garowe has emerged as a model of urban development in Somalia. Its meticulous town planning, peaceful environment, and entrepreneurial spirit attract visitors and job-seekers from Mogadishu, Hargeisa, and beyond. The city pulses with opportunity, blending tradition and modernity.
Conclusion
Garowe’s journey from a forgotten village to a thriving capital is a testament to resilience and vision. While shadows of its past linger, the city’s skyline—and spirit—soar ever higher. To walk its streets today is to witness Somalia’s potential in motion. Welcome to Garowe: where history meets hope.
Warsame Digital Media (WDM) – Documenting Somalia’s Stories
[This article was edited after posting].